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Mercedes Signed 14K Gold Ruby & Diamond Art Deco Hidden Watch Bracelet
ASSAY
$6,950.00
Mercedes Signed 14K Gold Ruby & Diamond Art Deco Hidden Watch Bracelet
Est. Delivery Between: and
Mercedes-signed vintage 14K yellow gold Art Deco hidden-dial manual wind watch bracelet featuring a gem-set dial cover with round ruby horseshoe motif and round brilliant diamond accents, a chevron-pattern gold bracelet, and ruby and diamond station accents at the lugs and wrist closure, measuring 18mm wide and 6.5 inches total length, weighing 47.7 grams.
Product Specifications:
- Item Type: Vintage Hidden Watch Bracelet — Art Deco
- Brand: Mercedes (signed)
- Metal: 14K Yellow Gold
- Movement: Manual wind
- Dial: Hidden beneath gem-set cover — revealed when cover is opened
- Length: 6.5 inches
- Width: 18mm
- Total Weight: 47.7 grams
- Bracelet Style: Chevron / quilted basketweave link
- Style: Art Deco hidden watch bracelet
Gem Details:
- Rubies: Round brilliant, vivid red — set in horseshoe/arc motif on dial cover, ruby row station at upper lug, ruby row at lower lug bridge
- Diamonds: Round brilliant, channel-set in white gold bars — V-formation on dial cover, horizontal channel station at lower bridge, horizontal channel at upper lug
- Setting Styles: Prong (rubies), channel (diamonds in white gold bars)
- Metal Detail: Two-tone — yellow gold body with white gold diamond channel inserts throughout
About Mercedes and The Design
Mercedes was a distinguished American fine jewelry and watch atelier of the mid-20th century, celebrated for producing signed luxury watch bracelets that blurred the line between functional timepiece and wearable jewelry — pieces that were as much about the gem-set bracelet as the watch concealed within. The hidden watch bracelet format — in which the watch dial is completely concealed beneath an ornate gem-set cover that opens to reveal the dial — was the height of feminine luxury watch design during the Art Deco and Retro periods of the 1930s through 1950s, favored by women who wanted a timepiece that read as pure jewelry rather than announcing its function. Mercedes signed pieces from this era are consistently collected for their design sophistication, their gold and gemstone content, and their status as wearable artifacts of American mid-century jewelry-making at its most ambitious. This example is particularly distinguished by the horseshoe ruby motif on the dial cover — a symbol of good fortune rendered in vivid red rubies with a diamond V-point accent at the crown — paired with a substantial 47.7-gram all-gold chevron link bracelet that gives the piece its remarkable physical presence.
Design and Construction
The 14K yellow gold body is constructed in a wide chevron quilted basketweave link pattern that gives the bracelet its flexible, body-conforming drape while providing a visually rich textured surface across the full 18mm width. The dial cover is a rectangular gem-set panel featuring a semicircular horseshoe arrangement of round rubies flanking a central diamond V-shaped channel bar — the rubies prong-set in warm yellow gold, the diamonds channel-set in a contrasting white gold insert. At the upper and lower lug junctions, additional ruby and diamond accent stations continue the red-and-white color pattern down into the bracelet body, ensuring the gem-set decorative detail is visible from both above and below the main cover panel. At 47.7 grams of solid 14K yellow gold the bracelet carries exceptional precious metal weight for a dress watch of this size, underscoring the substantiality and investment value of this signed piece.
MORE DETAILS
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USA: 2-5 business days (USPS/FedEx)
Canada: 4-8 business days
Australia: 5-10 business days
Europe: 4-8 business days
Other countries: 6-10 business days
Our layaway plan is 100% free and you don't have to apply or qualify for it. We simply require a 10% down payment then you will have 1-6 months to pay the remainder of the balance. Weekly, bi-weekly or monthly installment payments are available. You can pick and choose your own payment plan to find an option that works for you. Your order will be shipped to you as soon as it is paid in full. More Details Here.
We have a 14-day return policy, which means you have 14 days after receiving your item to request a return.
Non-Returnable Items: Certain items are ineligible for return, including:
- Resized or personalized items (e.g., engraved pieces).
- Pieces that are Custom-Made or Made To Order.
- Items purchased using an installment plan.
More Details Here
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Speak to an Expert
Consult directly with our on-staff GIA Graduate Gemologist and Watchmaker. Founded by an owner in the trade since 1983.
Speak to an Expert
Consult directly with our on-staff GIA Graduate Gemologist and Watchmaker. With an owner in the trade since 1983, expert guidance is always available.
Certificate of Appraisal
Every piece includes a certificate of appraisal, confirming authenticity, documenting value, and accepted by insurance.
Certificate of Appraisal
Every piece includes a certificate of appraisal confirming authenticity, documenting value, and providing trusted documentation accepted by insurance companies.
BBB, JBT & Diamond Dealers Club
BBB Accredited · JBT · Diamond Dealers Club · Rapaport
BBB, JBT & Diamond Dealers Club
We are proud members of the BBB, JBT, and Diamond Dealers Club, reflecting our commitment to professionalism, trust, and integrity in the jewelry industry.
Four Locations
Visit us in Key West, Downtown Miami, New York, or Hong Kong.
Four Locations
Visit us in person at any of our four locations in Key West, Downtown Miami, New York, or Hong Kong for personalized service.
Fast Shipping
Most in-stock pieces ship within 24–48 hours, with FedEx overnight delivery (orders $500+). Contact us for expedited shipping.
Fast Shipping
Most in-stock pieces ship within 24–48 hours, with FedEx overnight delivery available on orders $500+. Contact us for expedited shipping options.
Real People, Real Answers
Text, call, or email our team directly, before or after your purchase.
Real People, Real Answers
Connect directly with our knowledgeable team by text, phone, or email. We’re here to answer your questions before or after your purchase.
Insured & Gift-Ready
Every purchase is fully insured for its entire value and shipped with signature required.
Each order comes gift-ready upon request.
One of One
Most jewelry is made to be sold many times over. Ours isn't. We source rare vintage and estate watches you won't find in a display case anywhere else, and what we don't source, we make ourselves. Either way, the piece in front of you is singular, not pulled from a production run. When you buy from Assay, chances are no one else on earth owns its twin.
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